And since the majority of what I shoot is ACP and 9mm, my 45 brass ought to stay good for quite some time. RangerBill Operator. So far, Federal small pistol primer cases in 45 ACP have been an annoyance and nothing more. I even stopped buying their factory loads. Those boxes are not marked as to which primer is used. I bought a box of fifty a few years back to just take to the range, and when I went to process them for reloading, you can imagine my surprise.
I just don't buy them. I can buy plenty of Starline brass and reload to my hearts content. If I'm not mistaken, they Federal are the only manufacturer that does this. I haven't been able to get a straight answer as to why this is so. One reason I heard was the folks that shoot "3 gun". The AR's, 40's, and 9's all use small primers, and reloading is a simpler task when doing so many rounds. Sounds reasonable.
Then there was the story of the primer mixture being "environmentally friendly". This cartridge was designed with the large pistol primer from the beginning, and it has carried on this way quite nicely for better than a century. If it ain't broke, don't "fix it". If I find one in any brass that I happen to pick up at the range, it goes right into my "Junk Brass Can". Regards, Bill Just a quick edit. I checked Midways' site, apparently the Federal 45 ACP brass available for reloading is large pistol.
Perhaps it's just their factory loads that are primed small pistol. Last edited: Jul 7, RangerBill said:. Click to expand I have been reloading for over 50 years, no brag, just fact. I rarely buy factory loads these days, maybe to run something in a new gun that I don't have dies for yet. Last time for that brand. It's been "Roll your owns'" for everything I own.
I read so much about every ones' experiences with factory stuff that I'm quite content to keep busy at the bench. I just can't get into that one.
Incidentally, early last year there was a dust up over pierced primers in Bergara 6. One internet forum was saying it was a warranty issue with the rifles. Since I had just purchased one, I called Bergara. Practically speaking, you don't need to avoid handloading. Just be sure to keep them separated from the Large Pistol primer pocket cases.
Reloading Dies Reloading dies are where the magic happens. You'll need a set of dies for each separate caliber that you want to handload. Most sets run 25 to 50 dollars, although match-grade rifle dies and carbide handgun dies — which eliminate the need to lube cases before sizing — can cost a bit more. RCBS also offers a list of dies for obsolete or very obscure cartridges, with makes life easy for vintage gun nuts like me.
Handheld Priming Tool Many single-stage reloading presses come with a case-priming assembly, but in my experience they tend to be finicky and seat primers a little crooked. A good hand-held priming tool is well worth the expense, and will pay for itself in time saved. Many single-stage reloading presses come with a case-priming assembly, but in my experience they tend to be finicky and seat primers a little crooked.
Hornady makes one I personally use the most, but other manufacturers of reloading equipment offer quality tools as well. Reloading Manual While you can find a lot of the information online, there's no substitute for a good reloading manual. It will have detailed instructions and vast amounts of data, helping you master the finer points of handloading. Very importantly, a good manual is your guide to safety procedures, and will help you keep your eyeballs intact and all the digits on your hands.
Most bullet manufacturers offer a loading manual, but they are typically specific to that manufacturer's projectiles. My favorite all-around manual is Lyman's 49th current Reloading Manual. It offers extensive data for a broad variety of projectiles and propellant types in a very easy-to-access format.
Powder Scale Powder scales are used to measure and charge prepped cases with volumetric scoops. Some folks will tell you to start with an assortment of powder scoops, but I personally believe that's an antiquated and potentially dangerous method. A good scale typically costs 70 to dollars, enabling you to precisely measure gunpowder. Charging your empty cases by mass, is much more accurate than by volume. After you've referenced your loading manual and chosen a charge weight, simply trickle powder into the scale's pan until it reads as desired, then transfer the charge into an empty case.
This process is safe and precise, while also producing super-consistent loads. Reloading Press If reloading dies are where the magic happens, the reloading press is the cauldron in which it is brewed. The dies are screwed into the top of the press, and the shell holder attaches to the top of the ram.
As you cycle the handle, the ram travels up and down, sliding the cartridge case in and out of the dies; where it will be resized, flared if needed and the bullet seated. Single-stage presses are the most common type, and are most applicable to this discussion. They hold only one die at a time, and thus will perform only one action at a time.
Available models vary from compact, handheld versions, up to massive high-torque presses — some designed specifically to handle the extra-large demands of cartridges such as the.
Prices range from 60 dollars up to several hundred. Any of their various models will serve well, but bigger presses offer more torque and are easier to cycle, especially when loading big magnum cases.
Powder Trickler While I trickled gunpowder into the pan of my scale with a teaspoon for years, using a good trickler is far easier and much less trying on your patience. After dumping a charge just short of complete into the pan of your scale with a volumetric scoop or a spoon, just twist the knob on the powder trickler and drop a few grains of powder into the scale to complete the charge.
If you have the extra dollars, get Hornady's Lock-N-Load Quick Trickle , which has a good-size powder reservoir and dual-speed knob — enabling complete, fast trickling straight from the trickler.
Case Die Lube Before sizing-down expanded cartridge cases, you'll need to lube them so the cases don't stick in the sizing die. You can apply lube by hand; or by rolling cases on a pad impregnated with lube, or by spraying them down with lube suspended in a carrier of alcohol.
I use them all, and some application methods are better for some cartridges than others. If I had to pick just one, I'd use a spray lube. Just line up the cases on a cookie sheet or a sheet of cardboard, and spray them lightly. Then roll the cases a half-turn and spray again. As soon as the carrier has evaporated, the cases are ready to size. Who makes the best case lube? It's not available at most gunshops; you'll likely have to order it online.
Shell Holder Easily the most overlooked, yet absolutely necessary bit of reloading equipment, the shell holder is a small, 5-dollar tool that fits into the top of your reloading press's ram and holds the base of the cartridge as it runs in and out of the various dies. Get notified when this is back in stock:. Notify Me. Add to Cart. This item is available for pre-order. This item is not available for pre-order at this time. Estimated Ship Date: false. Primer bundles, while warrantable, cannot be returned to RCBS or our retail partners.
All sales on primer bundles are final. Use It With. Rebel Master Reloading Kit. With that set you get a full-length sizing die that brings the case to SAAMI minimum cartridge dimensions, sizing the outside of the case, de-priming, expanding the neck to accept a new bullet, and holding headspacing to minimum tolerances to avoid changing the case body length.
This full-length sizing die is paired with a seater die that has a bullet-seater plug, as well as a built-in roll crimper to secure the bullet during seating. RCBS shell holders are manufactured to exacting tolerances and are hardened for years of use. Shell holders are cut to.
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