Now line the outside slide up with the underside of your bracer and use a marker to transer the location of the attachment holes. Once the bracer is marked, create the holes.
Now use your rapid rivets to rivet the blade to the bracer as shown in the GIF image. Alright, only one more small step until you have a finished Hidden Blade, continue on to the next step to learn how to attach the ring that activates the blade release.
Now that your Hidden Blade Mechanism is attached to your Bracer, the only thing left to do is affix the ring that activates the blade retracting mechanism, i. Start by drilling a small hole in the flat spring close to the end you ground to a point. Next tie a knot in your string and lace it through the hole so that the knot acts as a stopper keeping the string from pulling completely through. Now tie the free end of the string to your ring, you may have to play around to find the proper length for the string so that when you pull your hand back the string pulls up on the spring and releases the blade.
Congratulations, you should now have a working Hidden Blade prop!! To deploy the blade, simply give a flick of your forearm and the blade will slide out and lock in place. Now that everything is finished you're ready to impress your friends and fellow Assassins Creed enthusiasts with your awesome Hidden Blade! Thanks for taking the time to check out my Instructable, I know there were quite a few steps but I hope they were detailed enough so that you can successfully follow them and make your own Hidden Blade prop.
I hope you enjoyed this project and found it to be informative, If you have any questions or comments please feel free to leave them in the comments section and I will do my best to get back to you as soon as possible. Question 18 days ago. I am intrigued. Wondering if a few conversions could be made to make this a top mount application for a Predator gauntlet? Has anyone tried? Im finding remarkably little material on double action predator blades.
Question 2 months ago. Do you have any better idea to replace hacksaw blade to something else , something with better quality that does not break at all? Reply 1 year ago. When I watched the video I saw that you can only pop the blade out by pushing it out or do you have to fling it out.
Reply 4 years ago. That is awesome! I'd be so afraid of accidentally catching my hand with it but I still want one. I am almost done making this amazing HB you designed, but I have run into a couple of problems, and I was hoping you could help me out with some of them.
Is it possible you could post some links to the spring and rivets that you used. My major problem however, is that the replica dagger that you used doesn't ship to my state, so I can't use that for the blade.
Is it possible that I could buy one from you and you could ship it to me. I know this isn't that active of a thread but I was hoping you could reply and help me out. Either way, props for the amazing build. I made my own blade and I suggest bolts instead of robots after 3 of them fell out while I was hitting a tree.
Question 3 years ago on Step 3. Hi im trying to make this with a slightly different slide, but thats not the point. I was wondering, can i make my own blade, and if so what are the measurements so that it is'nt to long or to short? Answer 1 year ago. Reply 3 years ago. Question 3 years ago. What kind of drawer slides are they called? I get the ball bearing part but I mean there are a bunch of different types and brands, I would like to know which one you used.
By Matt Makes Follow. More by the author:. My Design Goals for this Project: I wanted the Hidden Blade to be functional, to either extend or retract by moving my hand or wrist. I wanted it to look as nice as possible and as real as possible. I wanted it to be easy to build. I didn't want it to require a lot of special parts or tools. It is important that you get exact same one that I used otherwise the measurements won't work out properly.
To get the blade, dismantle the dagger and discard the handle, pommel, and cross guard components. The blade I used came very dull with smooth rounded edges, if yours is sharp or pointy I highly advise that you sand away the edges so that they are nice and dull, this will make it safer to use and may keep you out of trouble.
Small Coil Spring — This spring will be what retracts the blade when it is extended. I purchased mine from Lowes home improvement store as part of a variety pack of springs for around 3 dollars.
Flat Spring — This will hold the blade in place when it is extended. Small Nails — These will be cut and turned into rivets to attch the blade lock in step 5. Rubber Washer — when the blade retracts it retracts with a lot of force, this will be used to dampen that force i. Leather Bracer Materials List: 2 square feet of 5 or 6 oz.
Rapid Rivets — These are used to attach the blade mechanism to the bracer. They can be purchased from Tandy Leather or Michaels Crafts. Ring — Pick something that fits either your middle or ring finger.
If you don't have access to a Dremel, you can also use a metal hacksaw for the cuts. Files and Sand paper — For removing sharp edges left by Dremel cutting disks. Drill and Drill Bits — You can use a hand held drill or a drill press, both work well. Wire Cutters — For cutting your spring to adjust its strength. Screw Drivers — Installing screws. Metal Center Punch - For marking where you are going to drill holes on the drawer slide and blade.
Hammer — for peening down rivets. Paper or Poster Board — For creating patterns for your bracer. Leather Working Tool Beveler - This tool is used to create the Assassin's Creed symbol and designs on the leather bracer. Ruler — Creating patterns. Pencil — Marking patterns on leather. Permanent Marker - For making patterns and cut lines. Safety Glasses - Always wear eye protection when drilling and cutting the metal parts of this project. The spring-loaded knife attaches under the forearm with a leather brace and pops out to wreak quiet havoc on demand.
Master armorer Tony Swatton, the focus of the Man at Arms YouTube series, has created a real-world design based on a licensed toy version of the hidden blade. He started by reverse-engineering the toy to determine the size and how the retracting mechanism works. The actual blade is made from steel cable, a fascinating process that turns the rope-like metal into a sharp, dangerous-looking blade. The biggest challenge was crafting a spring mechanism that wouldn't just send the blade shooting out like a ballistic weapon.
For good measure, Swatton also forged a pirate cutlass from Assassin's Creed 4, noting the likeness to a blade he crafted for the Elizabeth Swann character in "Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest.
Learn more It's an unpredictable world out there, and you never know when you might need a blade for protection. The best place to hide one is along your forearm, where it's at the ready when a tricky situation gets out of hand.
Read on to learn how to make a hidden blade that straps to your arm and flicks out with a twitch of your finger. Then, cut the slide to the length of your forearm and cut the knife to fit inside the slide with an angle grinder.
Finally, fasten a couple of leather straps to the blade with adhesive Velcro so you can wear it on your forearm. For more tips, including how to stay safe when using your hidden blade, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account.
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Gather your parts and tools. This hidden blade is the real deal, and you're probably going to need to take a trip to the hardware store to get all the right parts and tools. You can get all of these parts for between 35 and 40 dollars depending on where you live. Here's what you'll need to make your own hidden blade: Hidden blade parts: A inch standard drawer slide.
Get a flat drawer slide meant to be fitted to the middle of a drawer. This will become the case for the hidden blade. The springs should look thick and fat. A key ring that will slip easily over your finger. Some fishing line. Get clear line so you won't be able to see it against your hand.
A inch piece of aluminum metal sheeting. A inch piece of cardboard. Industrial strength velcro. An old belt or piece of leather. Tools you'll need: A pair of pliers. A dremel.
A drill. A metal file. Some WD Take the drawer slide apart. The drawer slide will consist of three separate tiers. Start by pushing the black latch under the top tier and removing the top tier from the slide, then bend the metal tab located at the end of the large bottom tier and slide out the middle tier, the one with the ball bearing track inside it.
You'll also have extra ball bearings. Save these in case you lose parts as you go along; you might need replacements. Remove the ball bearing track from the middle tier. Do this by popping off the tab or cap at the end of the tier, making sure to save it. Slide out the ball bearing track and make sure to keep all of the ball bearings.
Cut the tier to the length of your forearm. Hold your arm in front of you with your elbow bent and your palm facing up. Lay the tier against your forearm, with the end of the tier resting at your wrist. Decide how much length you'll need to take off to have the tier rest comfortably against your arm; it should end a few inches from your elbow crease.
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